Wednesday 8 June 2011

UK Mon 4/4/11: Brighton, Southdowns Way, Eastbourne

It was a glorious day in spring. I left the hospital after finishing my night shift to catch a train to Brighton. To my dismay, I found out that my old bike was stolen! Sigh, I was looking forward to catch up with biking in spring since I did not bike at all during winter but now...have to do jogging instead.

Walking to the train station took longer time than biking and I missed the train when I was collecting my tickets at the counter. I had to wait for another 20minutes for the next train. Once arrived in Brighton, it is easy to see why everyone loves Brighton. The train station has view of the cliff and once exited the station, I was greeted by the lively atmosphere in the town. Everyone just look so gay and happy. Using plusbus ticket (purchased online when I bought my train tickets), I hopped into bus 6 to go to Churchill Square and from there crossed the road to bus stop E to board bus 12 to Exceat centre in Seven Sisters National Park. Brighton is a great place to do shopping I was told but it is either hiking or shopping so I chose the former. The bus weaved its way through small towns of Rottingdean, Saltdean, Peacehaven, Newhaven and Seaford before stopping at the Exceat Park Centre. I should have stopped at the Golden Galleon Pub really because it is much nearer to hike from there. One can choose to take hiking trails from the national park or walk towards the Golden Galleon pub and turn left to the footpath along the river to reach Cuckmere Haven and be rewarded with the view of the Seven Sisters. Since it was low tide, I was able to walk on the pebbled beach to take a better snapshot of the Seven Sisters.  Then, I climbed the small cliff opposite and the view is even better from here. Met a nice lady walking her dogs and she offered me a lift to Chyngton Estate. I am glad I had a lift because I could easily get lost while walking through the housing estate to reach A259 road to catch the bus 12 to East Dean. Waited for half hour for the bus as in the evening there is only 2 buses every hour at that area. Reached East Dean shortly. It is a very scenic village dotted with beautiful English cottages and it was a pleasant walk to Birling Gap. At the Birling Gap, I learnt about the history of the Gap and East Dean. In the past, it was not a safe town because it was the nest for the smugglers due to high tax on cotton. The smugglers were using Birling Gap and Cuckmere Haven to unload their contraband at night. Villagers stayed home after dark to avoid problems as there was death penalty for smugglers or anyone who harbours them. These places were involved in World War II action as well. Birling Gap was a magnet for shipwrecks in the past and even submarine was not spared…There are Neolithic and World War II findings at display just outside the café.

From the Birling Gap, I walked to the Bella Tout lighthouse which has been converted to a handsome guesthouse with café. Then, another few more miles walk before reaching Beachy Head. The weather was excellent and there were quite a number of visitors walking as well, doing the “Southdown Way”. Beachy Head is an amazing white chalk beauty with sharp precipitous cliffs plunging to the sea.  With the red and white lighthouse nearby, the duo are Southdown's icons. The bus 13X does this scenic route but only after 17th April and on weekends. Since there is no bus, I had to walk to Eastbourne to board bus 12 again to go back to Brighton. An Englishman advised me not to take the footpath to Eastbourne because it will not be easy to cross to the city and so I stick to the road. It was taking me quite long and since there was no signboard in sight, I was getting worried. A cyclist passed by but I was told to piss off when I asked for direction. Undeterred, I walked on till I reach a junction with road sign and turned right toward the city. But I reached another junction soon and I was not sure which turn to take as one leads to the city and another to the seafront. I tried to stop a car to ask for direction. A nice lady stopped and very kindly offered me a lift to the pier. Thank you God!!!
She dropped me off near the pier with advise about which fish and chips shop to go to. Eastbourne is a lovely town. The blue and white pier is a catchy sight and the esplanade is decorated with flowers in full bloom.  In the pier, there is café with English high tea, sweets and souvenirs shops and a game arcade. I was very hungry after miles of walking and soon, I was searching for fish and chips. Dined at Qualisea. Huge portion of haddock and chips at GBP5.80. Ate to my heart content and left to board bus 12 back to Brighton. Sadly, all shops are closed by 5pm and I could not do any shopping at all.

Back in Brighton, I stopped at Brighton Dome and Royal Pavillion. The History and Art museum was already closed unfortunately. The Royal Pavillion is indeed an interesting sight as it is a palace with eastern flavour…unusual for an English palace. It was built by the flamboyant Prince Regent (later King George IV) and rumors had it that Queen Elizabeth does not fancy this palace and sold it to Brighton municipal. Since all shopping centre was closed, I shopped for groceries instead before boarding a train back.
Seven Sisters




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