Wednesday 15 June 2011

Swiss travel Day 3: Mon 16/5/11: Bernise Oberland (Grindelwald,Jungfraujoch, Wengen, Lauterbrunnen, Murren, Interlaken)

Good weather alas!!! Just when I needed it most :) Extremely full day draining both my energy and my pocket. I started very early to catch the first train to Grindelwald but missed it due to some confusion. Thankfully, managed to get into the next train without too much delay.


Upon arrival at the Grindelwald station, there was already a huge crowd waiting to board mountain railway train to Kleine Schneidegg. I was tempted to join the crowd but went ahead with my initial plan instead. I wanted to see Oberer Gletscher which Grindelwald is famous for. The bus station is conveniently located next to the train station and the timing is such that train passengers have enough time to get onto the bus. The view along the bus journey to the glacier was amazing. The bus trip is free with Swiss Pass only until the glacier. Beyond that, tourists have to play discounted fee for the cable car to Pfingstegg and First. The bus stopped in front of the Hotel restaurant Wetterhorn facing the three famous mountains: Eiger(3970m), Monch(4107m) and Jungfrau (4158m) (The Ogre, Monk and Virgin). From there, I hiked for 15minutes before reaching the entrance to 890 steps log staircase that lead to viewing terrace of Oberer Glacier. One has to pay to climb the stairs but it was closed at that hour. Due to curiosity, I ignored the no entry sign and climbed the stairs. It was not an easy task. The staircase is steep at certain stretch and when reach midway, there was frost on the steps making the ascent dangerous. I went halfway up and was rewarded with wonderful view although it was a shame I did not reach the top to view Oberer upper glacier. I did not proceed further due to time and safety issue. Halfway through during the descent, a lady came up and scolded me for ignoring the no entry sign…well, serve me right. Hike back to the bus stop to catch the bus (hourly on schedule) back to train station. 


Boarded a train to Kleine Scheidegg, situated at Eiger mountain. It is a famous base for interchange to Jungfraujoch (Top of Europe) or to Grindelwald,  Wengen and Lauterbrunnen. Although it was Monday, the station was chock-a-block with tourists. I hopped into a cogwheel train to reach Jungfraujoch (fee 126 CHF after discount with Swiss pass...bleeding). There are viewing stops at Eigerwald and Eismeer along the way. The train weaved through Monch and Eiger mountain via tunnels with spectacular view along the way. But one really need a good pair sunglasses to appreciate the view without being blinded by the reflecting light from the glittering snow under the sun. Though wallet drilling and highly commercialized, it is nonetheless a MUST go place at least once in a lifetime.


Jungfraujoch (3454m) has a lot to offer but beware of altitude sickness. Due to the high altitude, tourists are advised to ascend slowly. One can become nauseous, dizzy or even breathless. I was fine but I saw some tourists becoming unwell. At Jungfraujoch there are Ice Palace, the Plateau, Ice Gateway (glacier between the Plateau and Ice Palace), Spinx Observation Terrace (with highest weather station in Europe), Ski and Snowboard Park, Aletsch Glacier and many restaurants. It is a popular destination for the Indians thanks to the Bollywood movies that were filmed here. There is even Bollywood restaurant here...yes, I am not kidding! The temperature was about -14*C or less. I did not mind the coldness but the wind was very harsh. I braved through the frozen coldness and lashing wind to take photos from the Plateau. It was also very slippery and my running shoes are not cut for snow walking for sure. I held on to the side rope to prevent fall. The view from the Sphinx was great too. Ice Palace has ice sculptures exhibits with slightly similar concept as Glacier Cave on Titlis mountain. The exit to Aletsch glacier was closed due to strong wind.


Left Jungfraujoch after an hour or so and returned to Kleine Scheidegg. While waiting for train to Wengen (car free resort), I was seduced by the smell of hot food in the restaurant. Bought fried potatoes for CHF 8...most expensive potatoes fries I ever had but what can I expect in such tourist hotspot...


It was still early in the season hence the cable car from Wengen to Mannlichen, a famous hiking ground  was closed. So I wandered aimlessly around Wengen while waiting for next train to Lauterbrunnen, a town with many waterfalls. As the train was approaching Lauterbrunnen, I could see many waterfalls from far , namely Staubbach, Spissbach and Buchenbach. I took a bus to Trummelbach falls (fee CHF11) with 10 tiers waterfalls. The thundering falls of Trummelbach (20000 litre per second!) are fed by glaciers of Monch, Eiger and Jungfrau. One can choose to go to the top with a lift or staircase. Sadly, I did not have time to visit the famous Staubbach and went to Murren instead. When Lonely Planet described Murren as Heidi heaven, I was intrigued. So although tired and it was already late evening, I persisted...and gladly so because the scenery was awesome. From Lauterbrunnen, I took a funicular to Grutschalp then changed to a train to Murren.


Took a train back to Interlaken and met a Malaysian couple from KL that I bumped into in the morning as well. I was officially broke (no more Swiss francs) and could not find a money changer that was still open at late hours. Thank God I was sensible enough to always store up some food while travel. So bread and cheese for dinner...as usual :( I swore I would eat like a pig once cross over to Austria ...he he he. Explored the lovely Interlaken town before walking back to my hostel. 
View at The Plateau, Jungfraujoch

View from Murren

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