Salzburg has definitely captured my heart. This grand city is not just all about Mozart or the Sound of Music.There is so much to see within the city and around Salburg that one need at least 4 days. I only have 2 days hence missing out on the gems of Salzkammergut area :( To make things easier, I bought the Salzburg card ( euro 34 for 48 hr due to peak season) that include free admissions to many museums and free public transport.
I explored the area outside the city first. Weather forecast predicted rain in the evening so I decided to go to the mountain early in the morning. Hopped into a bus to Untersberg, a mountain that is part of Berchtesgaden Alps that lies at the border between Germany and Austria. Its highest peak is Berchtesgadener Hochthron (1972 m). There are few myths about the mountain. One myth is about Emperor Frederick Barbarossa asleep with his beards growing around a round table and the world would come to an end if his beards circle three times. In reality, it is a mountain that has to be taken seriously. There are reminders that hiking are only for the experienced and well equipped. I did not do enough reading beforehand and totally underestimated the level of difficulty of climbing this mountain. In fact, just few days prior to this day, someone fell to his death and there was a helicopter circling the mountain for surveillance.
With Salzburg card, the cable car to the Geiereck peak is free. The view from the top is spectacular. There are many choices of hiking trails. I saw a poster of the Schellenberger Eishohle (largest ice cave in Germany) at the cable car station and was smitten. Totally oblivious of the danger that lies ahead, I started off on a gruelling hiking adventure that lasted 5 hours. Initially, the trail was easy. There were lovely Alpine blooms like bell flowers, crowfoot, gentian,lousewort and hawkweed scattered along the path and the wonderful view was encouraging. However, soon the rocky path became treacherous, steep and slippery. Without the hiking poles, map and compass, it can be very tough. Worse, I was wearing a normal running shoes instead of sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support. Frequently, I lost my footing because the rocks just slipped underneath. I was lucky because there were many hikers and I just tail behind them and reached the famous big cross at Salzburger Hochtron. Then, I followed a nice couple till a junction where I had to continue on my own. It was scary for someone so inexperienced like me. There are no more hikers nor sign boards. There are painted arrows on the rocks (if you can find them!). I even clambered on four at some part. Reached the Toni Lenz hut and I continued to hike up the rocky slope in hope of finding the cave but after half an hour I realized I missed the entrance to Schellen berger Eishohle...Usually visitors follow tour to the ice cave, maybe I should have...Feeling tired, sad and discouraged I did not know how to proceed. One option is to go back the same way I came from but being directional challenged I have no confidence that I can find the same path again OR continue downwards towards a nearby restaurant which appeared to be closed. I prayed to God for a sign. Almost immediately I heard the sound of people talking nearby. I looked up and saw few mountaineers climbing the steep cliffs and when I looked down I saw few people at the restaurant. I rushed to the restaurant to ask for direction. There, I met a kind Austrian couple who invited me to join them in their descent. I dreaded the path that I came from and happily agreed. However the fast steep descent of 2 hours killed my knees. The steep rocky path caused a lot of impact on the knees and by the time I reached the parking lot, I could hardly walk straight :(
The nice Austrian couple offered to drop me off at Hellbrunn. Though my legs were stiff like wooden stilts, I still had to continue. Thankfully, it is just the right place to bring cheer and made me forget about my sore legs...well, at least temporarily. Archbishop Markus Sittikus, the founder of Hellbrunn got the idea for the palace and grounds from Italy. The palace and its gardens with wasselspiele (trick fountains) provided entertainment for guests as early as 17th century. There is guided tour (included in ticket, free admission with Salzburg card) in English and it was really fun. The first thing I heard was people screaming...I was shocked because I only expect screaming in amusement park. Soon...I discovered the reason for the scream :) The tour guide will lead the tourists through the fountains and grotto. Once in a while, he would turn on the trick fountain to spray water on unsuspecting visitors. The Royal Table at the Roman theatre is one of the most wicked trick! Admirable fountains are the Altemps fountain (Perseus and the Four Season statues), Neptune grotto, Venus grotto and Capricorn grotto. In the Neptune grotto, there is the mocking Germaul that will stick out its tongue periodically. Listen to the 10 birdcalls in Birdsong grotto, generated by the water driven mechanism. Another impressive feature is the mechanical theater (year 1750) with 200 hand carved wooden figures and an organ driven by hydraulic power. After the tour finished, I visited the palace. The Archbishop was a collector of rare plants, fishes and birds hence the zoo nearby. Inside the palace are many paintings of rare species of birds and fishes that used to be kept in Hellbrunn. The Festival Hall and Octagon are the most beautiful rooms in the palace. With time to spare, I strolled around the garden and climbed a steep path to visit the Volkskundesmuseum (Folklore museum) which is housed in Schloss Waldems on top of Hellbrunner berg. Though small, it is a delightful museum that gave an insight of traditional Austrian culture including board games, furniture, wedding dowry/ gifts,traditional costumes, religious paintings, Kampus mask (St Nicholas festival in December) and the various Perchten head gears used in Perchten procession. Nearby is the Steintheater (Stone theatre) which was built on old quarry. As I came down from the museum, I passed by the Tiergarten Hellbrunn (Salzburg Zoo) and decided to pay a short visit since it closes at 6pm. I thought I have seen enough zoo but this visit proved me wrong. I saw animals like alpaka, pygmy marmoset and bolivian squirrel monkey and collared peccary for the first time in my life...
By 6pm, my internal battery was totally flat and I took a bus back to hostel instead of going to city centre. Ate dinner buffet in Jufa hostel at a reasonable price. Before putting on my night cap, I watched The Sound of Music played in the common room of the hostel...I watched this movies for countless time but at different age...yet some scenes still managed to wet my eyes. The songs like Favourite Things and Sixteen going on Seventeen really brought back sweet memories of high school :)
Untersberg
Alpaka, love the cool hairstyle!
No comments:
Post a Comment