Like Giant's Causeway, The Burren is a geological marvel. The carboniferous limestone was formed 320 million years ago and with time sculpted by massive glaciers to form terraced hillsides and boulders called erratics. Ancient earth movements fractured and folded the limestone and the rainwater expanded the hairline fractures to form deep cracks called grikes, separated by blocks called clints. It is also called a "karst" landscape. Turloughs (dry lakes) are shallow, temporary groundwater-fed lakes which appear and disappear in response to the fluctuation of the water table. During winter, the turloughs are frozen. Before exploring the Burren, I assumed that it is a sparse land like a dessert. To my surprise, it is a rich land that support a balanced ecosystem. Grass grows in the grikes and there are farming and cattles all around. In spring, there are wild flowers too. Unfortunately, I missed the Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb and The Caherconnel Fort was closed during winter.
The clint and grike create special landscape
Poll na Bron
I drove passed Kilfenora, Ennistymon, Lahinch and Liscannor before reaching the Cliff of Moher. Entrance to the famous cliff is free but I had to pay euro6 for the parking that include entrance to the Cliff of Moher Experience inside the visitor center. The cliff of 205m height has a sharp angle drop to the churning sea below. It is truly scary but yet very captivating. Due to ongoing erosion, standing on top of the cliff is not safe hence one can only view it from far. There is a folklore about a witch that was chasing after a prince and fell to her death into the sea hence the name of Hag's Head because it is shaped like a woman's head. On top of Hag's Head is a signal tower that was erected to watch for Napolean's ships in the past. The exhibition is truly informative and fun. It revolves the history in Moher including the native practice of bird catching and egg collecting along the cliff before World War II, background history of quarrying of flagstones of Moher to pave the English street, the underwater cave of Green Holes at Doolin Bay ( as oppose to Blue Holes caves in Bahamas) and geological explanation about how the cliff and the Burren landscape was formed.
After going through the exhibition inside the visitor centre, I was determined to visit The Doolin Cave. Sadly, the cave was closed during weekdays due to low season. I would love to explore the Burren National Park but is located quite out of the way and I had to skip it to visit Dingle Peninsular.
Next, I was heading for Dingle but I got so confused with GPS route that I wasted significant time. The GPS directed me to to go to Killimer. I was shocked when GPS directed me to drive into the sea. I thought the GPS has gone mad and I drove to Knock instead. At the Knock petrol station, a lady advised me to cross to county Kerry by ferry as it is the fastest way. The longer way is to go through Limerick. The prospect for driving for another 2 hours is not desirable at all and I drove fast to reach Killimer ferry pier in time to catch the 3pm ferry. It took about 20minutes to cross over to Tarbert in county Kerry. The cost is euro18 per car. It was near 3.30pm and I had to skip Dingle to go straight to Killarney as sun would be setting soon.
That day was the most unfortunate date during my Ireland trip. Reached Tralee pass 4pm. It is a very busy town with loads of cars presumably after work. The traffic congestion was really bad (bumper to bumper) and to make it worse, I met an accident near a roundabout. Maybe I was just too tired or maybe I was distracted by chocolates ( I was munching chocolate to keep myself awake) , I did not know how it happened as I rammed into the back of an Irishman car. Because of that, my pocket is bleeding. Euro 1000 was debited from my credit card and I am still in the mess of trying to claim 3rd party insurance. My Fiat Punto escaped without a scratch but the Irishman's Nissan was dented. *Sob* It is actually easier to claim had it been my car that was affected because I bought extra insurance coverage for the Fiat. Sigh....what a rotten luck! Yet, I should be thankful that I did not cause any bodily harm...It could be worse.
By the time I reach Killarney, it was pitch black. The Killarney Railway Hostel is located behind a hairdresser shop and it provides free parking. There is hot water shower but the heater is not warm enough for the winter. The continental breakfast is basic. I met Nina there, a nice Russian lady that traveled to Ireland with her library English club members. Later I met her again in Ashfield House in Dublin. What a small world!.
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