Evora is a very charming medieval walled city with cobbled path and small alleys. It is absolutely one of my favourite place in Portugal. But this is also the town where I injured my right foot leaving me limping by the last day of my travel. Am not sure whether it is the cobbled road or my much vexed leather hiking shoes which is one size too small that did the damage...
First, we walked toward Praca de Giraldo which looks much better at night in my opinion. Then we passed by Porta Nova, which is arches of the ancient 16th century aqueduct before reaching Joaquim Antonio de Aguair Square. From there, we walked towards Aqueduct of Aqua da Prata which is near the exit point of the walled city.
We weaved our way through the narrow yet picturesque alleys to see the oldest university in Evora, which is located near Jesuit Church of Espirito Santo. Temple of Diana, the remains of Roman ruins is just around the corner with Evora Cathedral behind it. I have visited many cathedrals and I would have thought nothing would interest me ...yet the Evora Cathedral is delightfully pleasing to eyes. The Manuelian architecture and decor with azulejos and marble render a unique feature quite distinct from the cathedrals in UK and Germany. There is a small tower to climb to get a top view of the city. Due to lack of time, I skipped the museum that is inside the Cathedral.
We walked back to Praca de Giraldo and headed towards Capella dos Ossos (The Bone Chapel). It is quite shocking to see the amount of bones buried here. Initially I thought there was once a massacre but further online check revealed that the practical reason of setting up such gory chapel is due to lack of space for cemeteries in Evora. The bones are from about 42 monastic cemeteries in Evora. It is a brilliant idea since the Chapel is one of the most visited place in Evora. The poems at display are also quite an interesting read. Near the ticketing counter is long row of azulejos (tiles) depicting the life of Jesus.
Capela dos Ossos
Checked out from hostel and pumped petrol. It is along drive from Evora to the mountain. I really should have skip the natural park of Serra da Estrella because it was closed...although the journey itself is worthwhile. I passed by Estremoz, another fort city on the hill along the way. It looked captivating from far but I had no time to stop by. To reach Parque Natural da Serra da Estrella, I had to drive pass Costelo Branco, Covilha and lastly to Monteigas.
Driving towards Serra da Estrella
By the time I reach Monteigas, it is already half hour to 4pm. To make things worse, the GPS directed me to near the park but NOT exactly at the entrance gate as I would have expected. Met two Portuguese women who sincerely wanted to help me when I asked for direction BUT to be frank, they stressed me up further when they continued to rattle in their mother tongue despite me trying to tell them I do not understand their language. One of the lady did manage to get hold of a young man who can speak English. I was informed that the Natural Park is closed! The next event that enfolded was really a nightmare. Monteigas is a very small town...with very steep (>45 degree) and narrow roads with sharp corners. The GPS was trying to direct me to Braga via the small roads. But when I missed one of the turning, it started directing me through even smaller roads till at one point it led me to very steep down slope with a dead end and a sharp corner at the arc of 45 degree which is impossible to turn. This is not the first time GPS is trying to set me up! Why on earth, a GPS has got options like fastest route or shortest route but NONE of SAFEST route. Sigh, a kind Portuguese man saw my ill predicament and tried to help. Again, I did not understand a thing he said except one "Oh Jesus". Meant bad sign. I was trying to reverse the car but made things worse. The Portuguese man almost jump out of shock...He then called the firemen to tow my car. Thankfully, they arrived shortly and my car was nicely pulled up the slope to a safe landing and a much wider road. I cannot thank them enough...
After that I tried to drive back to the Monteigas town centre but the GPS directed me in circle...till at one very narrow road, my car scraped the wall when I was trying to turn a small corner. Sigh, my heart stopped for the 2nd time of the day. The damage cost me euro 240 which I had to claim later from car insurance company. To add wound to salt, my car was also stuck behind a funeral procession. Alas, I decided to disregard the GPS and drove towards Guarda instead. I was trying to get out of mountain roads before it got dark but it was impossible by then...The roads are winding and dark...but God is kind. He kept me alive. In the semi darkness I witnessed a beautiful sunset in Serra da Estrella. Well, that is the silver lining in the cloud for me.
From Guarda, I drove towards the motorway to go to Braga. It was another long hours drive so I stopped at one of the service centre along the way to buy pastries. The pastries are simply delicious. Light and fluffy, sweet yet not oily. Love them. Though I cannot recall all the names except for ovos moles. I do not know how the Portuguese does it. Almost every name of places, roads and food are super long...
Reach the Youth Hostel (Pousada de Juventus) in Braga late...And I had the room all by myself :)
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