Monday 31 January 2011

Portugal Day 1: Sat 22/1/11 The Algarve: Faro, Carvoeiro, Lagos, Sagres

I was a bundle of nerves on the night before the travel. Instead of planning the trip, I spent days watching all the seasons of Heroes and I could not stop till it was completed.So, at the end, I was a sleep deprived zombie 'again', very unprepared for the trip and on top of that, I did something really stupid. I rented a car to drive in Portugal because I wanted to squeeze every sightseeing into the four days BUT I did not have a GPS!!!

Spent hours looking at google map and downloading google earth to plan the directions to drive around. Realized it is futile unless there is someone sitting at passenger seat to read the map. Finally, I decided to do the most sensible thing...to buy a GPS in Faro town...

With just one hour of sleep, I hopped onto an early morning bus to Gatwick airport.  And with just 20minutes to spare, I rushed to Travelex to get my euros purchased online, passed the security and grabbed a new Garmin Nuvi 245W in Dixons travel before boarding the plane. First time in my life buying something above £100 without batting an eye :p The flight was slightly delayed due to some engine check problem but it arrived in Faro airport just about half hour late. It is a joke that I planned this trip to Portugal to escape the winter in UK...the temperature in Faro was 10*C when I arrived! And as I travelled up north, it reached as low as 3 *C. Unwisely, I have packed very few clothes because I did not expect myself to layer up...silly me, I was expecting glorious sunshine throughout.

Portugal is nothing like what I have imagined. First, it is the unexpected cold weather and strong wind! So windy that the wind generators are used as source of energy here. Second, it exudes a quiet untouched charm very unlike other modern European countries. It grows on you...with its incredible well preserved heritage ancient cities, rolling green hills and spectacular cliffs. And an unforgettable Portuguese tarts :p Portugal is like a small box of assortment candies, full of surprises...

The only thing that I really struggle in this country is the fact that I can only speak English and more than 95% of the people I asked for help from only speak Portuguese and Spanish :(
And it is not easy to drive in the countryside as the roads are narrow and up in the mountain area, the roads are winding and very steep (like more than 45*) with impossible sharp corner. I guess I am just not that skillful a driver to manouever the car in such hilly landscape...Later, there is an embarrassing incident that involve a rescue by the firefighters...Driving on the right side of the road, surprisingly did not pose too much a threat but I did struggle a bit on the first day whenever I want to turn to the left and sometimes wrongly turn into the opposite car's lane...he he
The toll fees are killer too...in a short 3 days drive, I spent almost euro 25 for the toll...very expensive compared to Ireland toll rates. Nonetheless, Portugal is an amazing country and worth a good 7 -10 days visit. My effort of cramping everything into 4 days does not do it justice.

One of the admirable thing about the airports in Portugal is the ease of picking and returning rented car. There is a designated section that is well signposted and easily accessible. Through Holidayautos, I rented a Mitsubishi Colt for 3 days at the price of £41 (including full insurance coverage) which is a very reasonable price. It is low season after all.

With my brandnew Garmin as my companion, I drove towards Carvoeiro. The car has the tendency to drift to the right and the right front wheel scrapped the sidewalk ( I tried to blame the car :p) My heart almost stopped when I heard the screeching sound...

Praia de Carvoeiro (beach) has a lovely cliff. A short climb up the staircase gives one a good view of the cliff and the town. There is also a small church at the hilltop. No tourists on the beach due to the cold weather...


Next, I drove to Praia de Rocha but the GPS directed me to a place that is not the beach at all...
Disappointed, I drove to Sagres point to visit Fortaleza de Sagres.

Sagres, reputed in the past as Land's End is postulated to be the site of school of navigation founded by Henry the Navigator. Fortaleza de Sagres is like an open air museum exhibiting the four fundamental elements: earth, water, air and sun. It reminded me of Avatar (the anime of course, not the movie). Past the main entrance is the "Wind Rose" or Navigator's Compass, a bizzarre 50metre diameter circle with 48 rows of pebbles arranged radially, which is thought to be a gnomon sundial or solar quadrant. Along the seven themed stations, there are interestings facts like the usage of wave energy and wind power to meet the country's electrical demand.  In Sagres, the wind blew me forward for one good metre. And no, I am not a mere twig, mind you. The wind is just blowing constantly without mercy. To make things worse, it was drizzling. At one of the corner facing the sea, there is a maze-like builtup where when one walks inside it, one can hear the whistling sound of the wind from below! (yes, not above). Nearby, I could hear a loud sound resembling a jet dive bomber sound generated by a mere small plane model propelled by the wind.


View of Cape St Vincent (Europe's most southwestern point) from Sagres Point



My initial plan of driving to Alqueva where the biggest artificial lake in Europe is, did not take place due to lack of time. So, I drove to the bautiful Praia de Luz and to the town of Lagos en route to Evora.

Reached Evora by nightfall. Had slight difficulty finding the Old Evora Hostel but met very kind lady who helped to call the hostel for direction. The hostel is lovely, with azulejos along the staircase. After putting off my bag, I walked to the town for Portuguese food.  Dined in a restaurant by the name of Adega do Alentejano. I made the mistake of eating the hard bread and cheese served on the table...thinking it is complimentary (nothing is free!). The main meal "Carne de porco u ameijoas", Portuguese pork stew with clams is the saving grace :)

Slept early due to exhaustion...

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