Portugal last day: Tue 25/1/11: Lisbon: Belem and Alfama

I had only one day for Lisbon hence no chance to visit Sintra, Setubal nor Cascais. After a good breakfast in Old Lisbon Hostel, I set out early to explore Lisbon. Crossing Praca Duque de Terceira to get to Cais do Sodre gave me an adrenaline rush. The buses, trams and cars were crisscrossing nonstop that I had to run for my life. Lisbon is a city that was built on seven hills hence the roads are steep and there are even elevators to help people get up and down these roads. It has very good public transport network but it is not easy to navigate your way if you cannot read nor speak Portuguese. Thankfully, I managed to get maps of trams, subways and buses from the tourist office in the airport on the night before. Hopped into tram no 15 with the rest of the morning crowd towards Belem.

Arrived near Torre de Belem (Tower of Belem). It is free entrance with Lisboa Card. Unfortunately, it is only open at 10am. Waited outside the door patiently. Even at 10minutes past 10am, the staffs still did not open the door despite a small group of tourists waiting outside the entrance. When knocked on the door, a staff appeared and gave an angry rebuff before slamming the door shut again. Such an attitude! Time is precious hence I gave up on the notion of entering the tower and took a bus to Centro Cultural de Belem. From there is a short walk to Praca do Imperios, a beautiful square in front of Mosteiro dos Jeronimos ( Jeronimos Monastery). Just across the road from the square is the Padrao dos Descobrimentos, a monument erected to mark the Portuguese Age of Discovery in 15th century.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos is massive and is a must visit place in Lisbon. Founded in 1501, it boasts fine carvings and Manueline architecture. It also houses the tomb of Vasco da Gama, Luiz Vaz de Camoes and Alexandre Herculano. When I studied history of Portugal invasion in Malacca during school days, never would I imagined that one day I would be able to see the tomb of Vasco da Gama...

Mosteiro dos Jeranimos

Luckily, I was not too lazy to walk to Museu Nacional dos Coaches from the monastery because I found the Antiga Confeitaria de Belema !!! It has the best pasteis de nata (is named Portuguese tart in Msia) in Portugal. The taste of the custard tart is just out of this world and to eat it with cinnamon powder and icing sugar sprinkled on top is just amazing. After gobbled down two tarts at one go, I joined the long line again to buy other types of pastries though I must say only the pasteis de nata is truly memorable...

Happy with custard tarts in my stomach, I walked to the Coaches Museum. It is nothing like any museum I have visited before. Really one of its kind. It is fun to see all different types of coaches, litter, sedan chair and cabriolets. Reminded me of Cinderella and its pumpkin coach. Just near the exit is the landau used by King Carlos during his assassination in 1908 with bullet holes visible at the door.

Museu Nacional do Coaches

Left Belem with a bus to go to Praca de Figueira and from there took bus 737 to Castelo de Sao Jorge (Castle St George). It was founded in 11th century and it was here, King Manuel I welcomed Vasco da Gama upon his return from India. It has at least six towers and the view of Lisbon from top of the tower is great. There is also archeological site of iron age and moorish quartes and the ruins of the ground floor of the Palacio dos Condes de Santiago (Palace of the Counts of Santiago). The museum inside was built on the ground of former Royal Palace of the Alcacova which was severely damaged by earthquake in 1755.

Lisbon view from top of Castelo tower

 

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Portuguese Tiles) is also a must see place. The only problem is there is no direct way to reach this museum. I took a subway from Praca de Figueira to Santa Apolonia and then bus to a nearby stop. Walked quite a bit and with help from a kind Portuguese man, found it alas. I absolutely love this museum. It is housed in the former Madre de Deus Convent so besides the massive collection of azulejos from mid 15th century to present days, it also has a church, Mannerist cloister, St. Anthony's chapel and Sacristy. The famous azulejos are Panel of Our Lady of Life, Great View of Lisbon (most complete iconography on the city before the 1775 earthquake) and Sao Bento staircase. The modern and contemporary azulejos are very interesting and is an eye opener.

By the time I finished, it was getting late. Rushed back to Cais do Sodre and climbed the steep Rua de Alecrim again to go back to my hostel. Then walked down again with my rucksack to catch a bus to the airport. Got down at the wrong stop because the driver did not understand what I was saying and I had to half run-half walk to the airport...

Safely boarded the plane and reached home late....

Next trip is Eastern Europe from Zagreb travelling south towards Greek Islands :)