Sunday 10 October 2010

8th day: Saturday 9/10/10: Dean Village,Water of Leith, Inverleith Park, Botanical Garden, West&East Princes Park, More museums

Water of Leith

Inverleith Park

                                           I drank from soup that uses this. Is very yummy.
                                             Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
                            I would never have guessed alpine plant can have such beautiful flowers
                                           East Princess St Garden
 West Princess St Garden
Is the last day in Edinburgh. So I tried to squeeze in few more sighseeing. Walked along Princes Street then along Queensferry St to Dean Village. It is a grain millet hamlet and is a big difference from the city. The air and sight is so refreshing. The Water of Leith (river) run across it and I walked along the river to reach the Dean Gallery and Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. I reached there at 9am but the museums only open at 10am. Sadly, I had to move on to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. Walked pass the lovely Inverleith Park to go to the Botanical Garden .  People of Edinburgh are indeed very lucky to have so many beautiful parks to jog and play. The botanic garden is massive. Very informative and I especially enjoyed the exhibition on fungi. This is also when I discovered I had eaten a mummified worm before (without knowing it earlier of course). Love this place. There is Chinese garden (setup with help from Yunnan), Rock Garden, Queen Mother's Memorial garden, Alpine garden, Woodland Garden, Cryptogamic garden, Victorian Palm House etc. I like the Alpine garden the most because the plants are amazing. It can withstand the cold and windy atmosphere at top of the mountain  but cannot live with the mainland temperature (such irony). Hence it is kept in a shade with constant blowing wind (from a pipe) to ensure dry moisture. 


After this fruitful visit, I walked back to Princes Street and visited St John's Church. The church is quite grand inside. Explored the West Princes Street Park. I prefer this park than its east counterpart which is separated by the Mound and the National Gallery. Visited the Royal Scottish Academy which has good collection of the past artists including Monet, Pable Picasso, Rembrandt, Glasgow boys etc.


Went back to hostel to get my rucksack and headed towards the City Art Centre. It was a very short visit because had to pay to other exhibition and since I had limited time, decided to leave after enjoy the potraits display. Next was the Fruitmarket Gallery across the road, which is simple and yet interesting piece of art. 


Packed dinner in Subway outlet in The Princes Street shopping mall and hopped into bus100 to the airport.


Edinburgh has got too many places to visit and too much things to do. One has to choose between sightseeing (historical building vs. art) , horror/ spoky adeventure in the Edinburgh dungeon, graveyard and the underneath vault (which I did not do) and shopping. So many things to shop for but I simply have no time to shop...they close at 8pm.


In future, I hope to visit the Palace, National Museum of Scotland and the Scottish National Gallery for Modern Art. 
But if I get a chance to visit the Scotland, I would visit the Highlands and the islands surround it because the Highlands is definitely love at the first sight :)

7th day: Fri 8/10/10 Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, Grassmarket, Holyrood Park, Arthur's Seat

Another early bird day. Started early for more sightseeing. Tried Scottish breakfast of Haggis and Eggroll. Not bad :)


Walked along Princes Street, crossed the road and at the National Gallery of Scotland, I climbed the staircase to the Mound. There is a Impressionist exhibition in the National Gallery but have to pay GBP10 to enter. The Royal Scottish Academy behind it is free though :)
There is a Museum on the Mound that depicts the counterfeit currency notes but I did not have time to enter. Too many museums and so little time. Explored Market Street and found the City Art Centre (certain exhibition has to pay) and Fruitmarket Gallery. Opening time mostly either 930 or 10am. Then explored the Royal Mile (High Street & Lawnmarket). There are many places of attraction along the Royal Mile but either is still closed or have to pay to go in. Passed by the St Giles cathedral (wished I had time to went in), Parliament Square and Signet Library, Gladstone House on my way to the castle.


The Edinburgh castle was swarming with tourists even before the opening hours. Mainly tourists from China. The admission fee is expensive and VAT 17.5% is charged on top of it. I was foolish enough to get an audio guide which cost GBP3 and another additional VAT charged too. Ended up paying GBP16(considered as contribution to the UK economy :P). The castle has got a very good guide that gave an overal brief history of the castle and the information at all gallery are well signposted. So I really do not need an audio guide because I was information overloaded!!! The castle drained me of all energy and took me 3 hours plus. There is Portcullis Gate, One o'clock gun ( a very old cannon that fires daily at 1pm except Sun, Christmas and Good Friday), National War Museum, St Margaret's chapel, Mons Meg, Scottish National War Memorial, Royal palace and Honours of Scotland (Stone of Destiny, crown jewel, sword and sceptre), Castle Vault (Prison of Wars). Bought a small bottle of malted whiskey here. There was free whiskey testing in the library and of course I was taken by the smooth whiskey taste. :P


After the castle, I explored the nook and corners of the Royal Mile as suggested by Lonely Planet. It was fine but one can do without the adventure. There was not much time for Holyrood Palace. Plus I got a bit lost after Cowgate, walked into Nicolson St instead of Canongate. So when I reached the Cannongate (part of Royal Mile), I only had less than an hour for the palace. So I skipped that. Went to the free Museum of Edinburgh instead. It is a very ancient building, previously a tenement itself. Here I discovered where and how people lived in the olden days. And the rich people did used the Sedan chair ( is like taxi for hire) to avoid their expensive clothes and shoes to get dirty. (just like the Chinese in the past!) There is also the old collar and bowl of Greyfriars Bobby, a legendary loyal dog that guard the grave of his master after his death and very old wooden water pipe (in the past water pipe was made of water resistant wood)


Opposite the museum is the Kirk of the Canongate. Later, I reached the Scottish Parliament, very modern, a stark difference from the older buildings around it. Opposite the Parliament is The Holyrood Palace. Visited the Holyrood Park briefly before heading towards Arthur's seat. It was a very steep climb and I was almost out of breath. The view from top again was worthwhile and I got to see the Salisbury Craig, 46m high cliffs at the top of Arthur's seat. After reaching the bottom, it was a long walk home. Went for a proper Scottish traditional meal at White Horse Bar at Canongate. I spotted this restaurant/pub earlier in the morning. It has reasonable priced Haggis,Neep and Tatties. Ordered that and a shot of Macallan single malt whiskey (merely 25ml). I have always wanted to try Scottish ale and whiskey but because I travel alone, I had to choose the pub wisely. I like this pub because no loud music nor rowdy crowd. It is a very pleasant place to dine though no luxurious feel to it. It is one of the oldest pub around first established in the 1790s. Staffs are nice too.


After dinner, I realized my legs are very sore and stiff. My legs felt like wooden stilt. Dragged my legs  along North Bridge back to hostel....


It was not a good sleep because the mattress was quite thin that I could feel the springcoils and worse, my legs were so painful with every turn.
Edinburgh Castle

                                             One o'clock gun
Arthur's seat, killed my legs here

                                             Haggis, neeps and tatties with whiskey :)

6th day: Thu 7/10/10 Edinburgh: Royal Yacht Britannia,Rosslyn Chapel, Calton Hill

Another early start. Catched the first bus from Inverness to Edinburgh. But because I was so early, the kitchen in the hostel was locked and my lunch and breakfast was left in the fridge there. *Sob* *sob* *sob*. I hope it finds its way to an empty stomach of tenant there instead of into the bin. The cold prawn pasta is quite tasty :( But the Scottish egg was not impressive. The day before, I tried microwaved it and it sort of exploded :P


Anyway, the sunrise view along the journey from Inverness to Edinburgh was worth mentioning. It kept me awake for some time before I dozed off again. In a bus, somehow my sleep button is ON automatically.


At Edinburgh bus station near St Andrew Square, it was just a short walk to my hostel, Princes Street Backpacker Hostel. It is behind Burger king that is opposite Balmoral Hotel. It is of perfect location as is very near Princes Street and Waverly train station. Fairly priced too. But one has to climb a long staircase to reach the hostel which is at the topmost floor. And if you walk through West Register Street to go there you might meet some drunkards around the corner. But if walk from Burger King, you would feel safer. There is a pub named Guidlford Arms downstair is not rowdy or noisy. Went to the bus station information centre to get more information. I wished I have printed a bus map beforehand because there are too many stops and too many buses.


I got a day Lothian bus pass to go to Royal Yacht Britannia in Leith. The entrance is inside the shopping centre in Ocean Terminal. Was very hungry hence shopped for lunch in Mark & Spencer. Not the cheapest option but  in dire need to feed the empty stomach. The Royal Yacht is very impressive. Entrance fee is GBP10.50 (audio guide included) but worth it. The ship was launched in 1953 and served for 44 years. Now, visitors can discover what life was like on board the ship for the Royal Family and crew. One can even book the Royal Deck or State Dining Rooms for special occasion. The visit took me near 2 hours because there is so much to see. There is Queen's bedroom, honeymoon suite for Princess Diana& Prince Charles, officer's ward room , laundery room, kitchen, state dining room, anterooms, engine room. Is really a massive ship. Met my weakness there, Royal Yacht Britannia fudge. Is not cheap but I wanted to try its rum &raisin and whiskey &raisin fudge. The latter is delicious!


Got into a bus back to Princes Street but struggled to find the bus stop that has bus going to Rosslyn Chapel in Roslin. I walked around St Andrew Square looking for the bus desperately. A bus driver directed me to the correct stop but too late for an earlier bus. Bus to Roslin is infrequent. Waited for more than half hour for the bus and because is after school time, traffic was heavy. It took an hour to go there and by the time I reached the chapel at 435pm, it was closed for admission at 430pm.  Fortunately, there were 4 more visitors behind me who also wanted to visit the chapel. And so, we were allowed in but only for 20 minutes and we had to pay full fees. No discount despite only 20minutes allowed and no guide (guide has gone home). Scotland's places of attraction are never flexible on fees and closing time. Does not matter you came from far. They close at 5pm sharp and would never extend an extra 5minutes. There is no negotiation at all and this is one of the disappointing fact about tourism here. As a doctor, even when patient turned up at door when closing, we never turned them down and quite frequent, I work extra free hours. I do not understand why people can be so strict about the opening and closing time...


Anyway, Rosslyn Chapel is in dire needs of restoration. The carvings are very beautiful and each has its own story. There is Dance of Death, the Green Man face, the upside down angel, etc. I wished I had more time to just sit and admire the chapel. No photography is allowed inside the building. By 5pm, I had to leave....


The bus back to town took another 1 hour. Walked to Calton Hill. There is a long and steep staircase up to the top. From Calton Hill, one can get a 360* view of Edinburgh. There is a city observatory centre, Nelson monument, Dugald Stewart monument, National monument and view of Firth of Forth. The night view was great too. Lonely Planet does advise not to come here at night but there was quite a lot of tourists at that time hence I felt safe enough to venture...


Walked back to Princes Street for window shopping. Met a new friend in the hostel, Kathrin, a German doctor who works in Switzerland and her boyfriend is a Malaysian. Very nice and humble girl. 


Good night sleep....
Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith

                      State Dining Room in Royal Britannia, Nelson Mandela and Gandhi dined here before
Rosslyn Chapel, Roslin

Night view from Calton Hill
   





5th day: Wed 6/10/10: Inverness,Cairn Gorm Mountain,Loch Ness Cruise

Another ambitious day of stuffing all in a day. The night before, a kind room mate used his computer to surfed net for the local bus timetable from Aviemore to Caingorm. That gave me confidence that I could visit Cairngorm in the morning and back in time for Loch Ness cruise in the evening :)


Cairn Gorm mountain at Ranger Base, with fierce wind and 8 degree celcius temperature

CairnGorm mountain garden with Camera Obscura
View from the Viewing Terrace at Ptarmigan railway stop 
                                            View when funicular train going down the mountain

To go to Cairn Gorm, one has to go to Aviemore town and get a local Cairn Gorm explorer bus to reach the Ranger base. Then you can choose to hike up the mountain on foot or ride a funicular train with 2km long track to reach Ptarmigan, the highest railway station in UK. Due to lack of time, I chose the train of course. Paid GBP 9.75 for return but no mountain access. Have to pay more if want mountain access but since I have lack of time, that was not needed. One can also choose for a walking tour with a guide. The temperature at Ranger Base was 8*C!!! The wind was so strong that I was blown sideway off course and my hands shook during photo taking. I had to snap photos real fast so that I could dunk my hands back into the gloves. Cairn Gorm does hold the UK record for highest wind speed ( equivalent of hurricane category 5)!  Is a popular place for snowsport during winter.


Cairngorm is the 6th highest mountain in UK and it separates the Highlands from the lowlands. There is difference in culture, tradition and language between the north and south. There were stories of Big Grey Man of Ben Macdui sighted here too! (like Yeti).


The first train runs at 1020am so I went up the staircase to visit the the Cairngorm mountain garden and Camera Obscura (an ancient type of "camera" that capture 360* live view of the surrounding). Met a friendly staff there who is so experience and informative.There is less than 5 Camera Obscura in Scotland. There is one in Edinburgh too. For the Camera Obscura to have the best effect, sunshine is much needed and less wind of course. 


Hopped into the first train and visited the Information Centre. Thoroughly enjoyed reading the information and hence not much time left to enjoy porridge in the cafe (World Porridge day) or shopping in the gift shop. The scenery from Viewing Terrace was captivating. Began to worry that I might miss the bus from Cairngorm ranger base to Aviemore. To go back in time for the cruise, I need to catch a 1230noon bus from Aviemore to  Inverness! I met a very kind Scottish couple from Arran during the ride down to Ranger base. We were in the same coach and I asked for their help for a lift to Aviemore. Henry and Margo are ever so warm and friendly. Later as we chatted, I came to know that Henry is the only bagpipes maker in Arran (there is less than 20 skilled maker in Scotland) and Margo works in the tourist center there. Because of their kindness, I had time to go to Tesco Aviemore to buy lunch. Small town really has got its perk. 10 hot chicken wings at 50pence! So cheap. Finished them while waiting for my bus.


Arrived at Inverness with time to spare. Paid for the Jacobite Loch Ness tour at the bus station but was charged 50p more. If paying the driver or buy online it is GBP21 for Temptation tour (2.5hr, 1 hour on coach,only half hr of boat along Loch Ness, include 1hour  tour to Urquhart Castle). It was drizzling and cold. But a lot of tourists!!! Sat on the left side of the coach to see the beautiful view along Loch Ness. Reached Clansman Harbour to board the cruise boat "Jacobite Spirit" :)



It was raining and very windy. A morning cruise would probably fare better as it rains every evening in the Highlands. The view along Loch Ness was ok (photo below) and of course shy Nessie did not appear. Next photo is of Urquhart Castle from the boat.

Had one hour visit in Urquhart Castle, a medieval castle with bloody history.

 After the cruise, walked around Inverness town and along river Ness. Would love to visit Inverness Castle (above) but it is closed at 5pm. So I walked on both sides of River Ness. The view was gorgeous. And the weather was perfect for a walk.

Lovely autumn colour crept in along River Ness (below)


View of River Ness from the hilltop where the Inverness Castle is situated. (below) Climbed a steep but small hilltop to the castle. Met Gary outside the castle, a doctor from America who is doing volunteering work in Bihar, India. He is involved with the immunization program there. He kindly offered to take photo for me and I  took a photo of him since he has no camera and promised to send a photo of him via email later. Americans are friendly lot.


Ness bridge at night is more beautiful than daytime view. (below)

Finished the night by shopping for food in Tesco and slept early...











4th day: The day I tried squeezing a lot of sightseeing in a day (Glen Nevis/Eilean Donan Castle/Kyle of Lochalsh/ Isle of Skye)

Woke up early again. Tried to catch the earliest local bus to Glen Nevis but to my dismay, the bus never arrived. Wasted solid 15-20min waiting for it. It was very very cold hence I would rather go by bus. But no choice, have to take bus no 11(by foot). Went to toilet in the train station but had to pay 20p (the only place in Scotland that I had to pay for toilet but probably because it provides shower for the traveler). The walk to the foot of Ben Nevis took about 45min. The view was so fresh and so pleasing to the eyes that one would not mind walking for 2 hours! (1st photo) Upon reaching the foot of Ben Nevis (2nd ,3rd photo), I met a guy who was waiting for 3 guys who were at the top of Ben Nevis. They were trying to conquer 3 mountains within 24hour to raise fund for charity. Hat's off for this trio. This guy actually drove all the way from Newcastle to Fort William and would continue to be the chauffer for a day till the feat is completed. Anyway, I was told that one needs an hour to climb and cross the gorge to see Stealth Falls and Lower Falls and weather forecast did mention there would be rain at the west side of the mountain. Though I really wanted to see the Falls, I was not prepared for the journey. I did not have water proof boots nor 2 hours to spare because I needed to check out by 1030 and the bus to Eilean Donan castle was also around that time. It was hard to let go but I had to walk back to the town again. Dropped by into Ben Nevis Highland Centre for window shopping but resisted the temptation to buy anything which I regretted later because the woolen tartan scarves here are the cheapest, 2 for GBP15. 

Returned back to hostel to check out and meet up with Veronica. Together, we walked to bus station to board a bus to Dornie, home to infamous Eilean Donan Castle, where the movie Highlander (and even Kuch Kuch Hota Hai!) was shot. While waiting for the bus we saw the Jacobite train (a.k.a Hogwart Express) in action, puffing out a cloud of steam! (4th photo) The journey to the castle has very fabulous view but I fell sleep a lot of times. Almost always, the moment I jerked awake, I was greeted with a jaw dropping view. Also, I was hungry and too busy eating my lunch than clicking my camera. Will try to get photos from Veronica who stayed awake for the view. 

Eilean Donan Castle(5th photo) is a 13th century Medieval Castle which had seen a lot of wars. Demolished to prevent Jacobite uprising  but later restored by Lt Colonel MacRae. From the outside, it was not very impressive but inside the castle (photography prohibited) is quite a sight to behold. There are many historical relics, ancient kitchen, dining hall, guest rooms, main bedrooms etc. 

Later, we caught a bus to Kyle of Lochalsh. Kyle used to be a mainport where boats depart to Isle of Skye. But after the Skye bridge (7th photo) was built, transportation became much easier. This is also the place that I seen many rainbows in a day. About four rainbows! But this is also the place I was trapped in rain and harsh wind while waiting for the last bus to Inverness.

At Kyle, we hopped into a bus to Kyleakin, Isle of Skye . We really should have waited another 5min for another bus to Portree, the most famous place in Isle of Skye. I did not do any survey at all on Skye because I thought I would not have time to go there. Eilean Donan and Skye were not in my initial plan of sightseeing. Kyleakin is a very small and quiet town. It has got its own quiet charm but nothing much happening there. We hiked to see the Castle Maol ruins (6th photo) and walked around town to find the Obbe village  but later running out of things to do. The option of finding a seaside otter was not very appealing to us. Veronica was waiting for a bus to go back to Fort William and my bus to Inverness was at least 2 hours later.  I wanted to get a bus to Portree but the bus either later or never turn up. We went into the tourist shop instead to kill time.  Then we boarded the same bus where I would dropped off at Kyle of Lochalsh. Along the Skye bridge , there was rainbow at bow sides. Back in Kyle, I wanted to eat nice seafood dinner but eatery only open at 630 pm and my bus was at 745pm (initially I thought was 720pm but winter schedule is different from the time depicted at the bus stop). So I climbed up steep staircase to Cooperative for simple food and also for shelter from the cold wind and rain. Another perfect rainbow there (8th photo) while waiting for the rain to stop. It was actually a double rainbow. While waiting in the bus stop at Kyle, met a hairdresser that was waiting for a bus to Portree. She looked kinda familiar. I realized she was trying to emulate Paris Hilton look. Platinum blond hair with curled eyelashes. A pretty girl, nice to talk to while waiting for a bus.

The bus did turn up on time. Was so glad to hop into a warm confined space. But Paris lookalike still waiting in the bus stop alone. It was a scary feeling ...trapped in rain and harsh wind. Another time that I wished I had a car...On the way to Inverness, saw Eilean Donan again during sunset. It was in a different lighting...so maybe all the waiting for bus was worth it after all.

                                               Walking towards Ben Nevis base
At the foot of Ben Nevis.

                                                    River Nevis
                                           Jacobite Steam Train
                                                   Eilean Donan Castle
                                            Kyleakin, Isle of Skye
                                           Skye bridge
A perfect rainbow in Kyle of Lochalsh after heavy rain

Arrived at Inverness near 9pm. The Inverness Tourist hostel for tonight is the cheapest among the 4 hostels and also the nearest. Less than a minute walk from the bus station! But is also quite scary to walk there at night as it was next to a car park and the entrance door is at the side. The staffs and people are friendly. A lot of school kids came after 10pm and the toilets became quite messy after that but I had good sleep as the room was quiet. Milk, tea and coffee are free too :)

3rd day:Mon 4/10/10 Mallaig,Glenfinnan viaduct and Monument

Baptist Church in Fort William that I attended on Sun night

                                         Near Corpach train stop
                                          Mallaig: simple and yet attractive
                                          During circular walk in Mallaig, Isle of Skye at the horizon
Houses at Mallaig Beag on top left

            Glenfinnan Monument with Loch Eil at the background, view from top of hill behind the Tourist Center
Glenfinnan Viaduct from the same hilltop, I waited for the sun for this glorious view...
Woke up early to catch a Scotsrail train to Mallaig. The only reason I did this is because I wanted to snap a photo of Glenfinnan viaduct and is too kamsiap to pay for the Jacobite steam train which cost 4 times more. But the journey to Mallaig was rewarded with much more than just a snapshot of the infamous viaduct made famous in Harry Potter movies. The view along the journey is like a delicious appetizer before a main meal. The train stopped in Corpach (2nd photo) where the famous Neptune's staircase is ( the longest staircase lock in the UK). Wish I have time to stop but it takes more than an hour as the boat is being moved through all 8 locks. Btw, the first photo is of the church that I attended the night before.


Mallaig is very picturesque. It has the out of the postcard feel whenever I snapped a photo. This is where tourists hop into ferries to Isle of Skye. I walked along the seafront and found a hiking trail called "Circular Walk". In oppose to my natural laziness, strangely in Scotland I am game for any hiking. Deep inside I knew that every hiking is always rewarded by a majestic view. And so i climbed the long staircase and up the hill. Wind was blowing quite harshly at times but manageable. The view from top is truly worthwhile. It overlooks the Isle of Skye. Instead of taking the same route back, I tried taking a tar road hoping that it would lead back to the town. There is a small settlement of houses over this small hill (Mallaig Beag; Beag means small peak) that facing the sea. What a great place for retirement and de-stress! Walked my way back to town to catch a local Shiel bus to Glenfinnan. Mallaig is also famous for fresh seafood. Wish I can dine here but I had to rush because buses are infrequent in winter especially for a small town. 


Glenfinnan proved to be exactly as beautiful as shown in the photos that I have seen in the website. The climb up the Glenfinnan Monument is via a small, narrow and steep staircase but 360 degree view of Loch Shiel and Glenfinnan viaduct is definitely worth the hardwork. Wind was very strong and my hands did shake when taking some of the photos. I had plenty of time at this place because the next Shiel bus is only due 3 hours later. So I hiked a small hill behind the tourist center. On the peak of this hill is the best view of Glenfinnan viaduct (made famous by Harry Potter movie where Hogwart express was shot travelling on this exact viaduct). Sat there while enjoying the view before climbing down to visit the museum. Though small but very informative about the Stuart royal lineage, Bonnie Prince and how the Jacobite was founded and defeated. And I started shopping because there was nothingelse to do. This was how I fell in love with the rum & raisin fudge. It was handmade and very very delicious! And I thought I only love Indian sweet. Later I spent more money buying fudges than anything else. The bus was slightly later than usual. I had to wait outside the comfort of the tourist center because the bus would not stop unless someone waves madly. It started to rain and it was getting colder. I watched as the cars leaving and wondered whether I should hitch-hiked instead. Alas, the bus came to my relief. Renting a car is really a much better idea to travel around the higlands. If I had a car, I would have gone back by 2pm and climb the Glen Nevis to see the Stealth Falls and Lower Falls (famous waterfallls in Fort William). Anyway, reached Fort William by 5pm when it started to rain heavily. I tried to walk to waterfront to take photo of Loch Linhe but the wind blew my umbrella upside down (if you know what I mean). I treasured my camera more hence aborted the futile attempt of trying to go against the wind. Walked back to the hostel. Met Veronica and she suggested to visit Eilean Donan castle, the site where Highlander was shot. I was torn between that and of Glen Nevis. Worst, check out time for the next day was 1030am....Wish I had a car....

2nd day: Sun 3/10/10 Glencoe & Fort William


Glencoe Lochan, the jaw dropping view, it was heart stopping beauty

          
                                             Around the Glencoe Lochan. Lochan means small lake, but it is not small at all.
                                         Quaint Glencoe Village

On top of Aonach Mor mountain, overlook Loch Eil and Loch Linhe

Northern shoulder of Ben Nevis


It was raining of course. Got a cab instead of walking. Hop into the earliest bus to Glencoe. I have bought an Explorer pass for GBP35 which allows me to travel 3 out of 5 days free. It saved me a lot of money. I overslept and I got off at Ballachulish instead. Despite telling the driver to give me a shout when arrived at destination, he forgot to alert me. Is really a nightmare to get off at a small town. The tourist office is not open and as I fumbled through the bus schedule, another bus from opposite direction just passed by. That was the bus I supposed to catch to go to Glencoe. The next bus would be an hour later. So I walked in the rain with an umbrella and my backpack. The scenery was great and because of my winter jacket and good gloves, I could tolerate the cold. My initial destination was Glencoe Tourist Information office but once I reached Glencoe Village, I was too lazy to walk further to the office which is probably a mile away. Instead, I explored the Glencoe Village and found much joy and unexpected beauty awaiting. I did not have much time to survey the Highlands but the West Highlands are full of surprises and beautiful landscape 360 degree. The village is lined alongside the road by scenic cottages and B&B. There is a folk museum but was closed. This is also the site of Massacre of Glencoe whereby the Macdonald clan was murdered. Found the monument that was erected for memory of the victims. Across the bridge is lovely trails to track along the River Coe. I tried one of the easiest trail that brought me to the pristine beauty of Glencoe Lochan. It is such a beautiful sight that simply took my breath away. The first thing I thought of is OMG. I walked around the lake while munching my lunch. The view is simply beyond words. Later I found out that this view was used as a background for Hagrid's hut in Harry Potter. This lake was built by Donald Smith for his wife Isabella, a native Canadian to help to curb her homesickness.


After Glencoe, I tried to catch a bus to Fort William. I was ambitious and wanted to visit Aonach Mor in Fort William. However, the funny part about Fort William is there is not bus counter and the tourist information is in the town center so one has to walk to the town just to get some information about the bus. I circled the bus stop and Morrison's shopping centre 2-3 x just to find out that piece of information. But with God's grace, I managed to hop into a 1pm bus to Nevis range in Aonach Mor (8th highest mountain in UK, 4006 ft). Paid GBP10.50 for entrance and gondola ride . The view on top is another heart stopping experience. Although cold and very windy, I hiked for 1 hour with my good rucksack on my back. Each hiking trail was rewarding with a breathtaking view especially the 40minute hike that presents the northern shoulder of Ben Nevis (highest mountain in UK, 4406 ft) and expansive view of Loch Eil and Loch Linhe. Ben means mountain and Loch means lake. Met a lot of Indian tourists here, probably from the same tour group. I timed my hiking so that I can catch the last bus back to Fort William. Shopped in Morrisons for food and ate a sumptuous dinner. Stayed in Fort William Backpackers Hostel which is uphill. I was quite out of breath due to steep climb. It is one of the top ten hostels in UK with free flow of milk, cocoa, tea and coffee. But internet is 80 p per half hour :( 
It is not the cheapest hostel though I am glad to meet a new friend here the next day. Veronica, from Poland is a very nice girl who was working in a remote part in northern Scotland and is going back to her hometown for good next week. The same night, I attended a Baptist church just a minute walk from the hostel. The sermon was inspiring and I did not day dream as much as I usually do. I met Jean, Martha and Tony. The folks are warm and friendly. Tony worked in Malaysia in the 90s for a couple of years and able to converse in simple Malay. And he loves the people and food in Malaysia. He particularly like Bak Kut Teh and cili padi. It was an amazing experience and I felt so blessed to have meet new friends along the way.